holdiay

I am going on a 10day trip around Southern Kazakhstan, starting with a 72hour train ride from Almaty to the Caspian Sea. It will be epic. It will be tough, and i hope it doesnt kill me!

I will write an update on what exactly has been going on here, when i get back.

15th November

15^th November

“If failure had no penalty, success would not be a prize” Sorcery

First REAL snow of the year in my village has started falling this evening, after I spent the day teaching the seasons, and telling everyone it was still Autumn. Bloody typical. At least they get to practice the vocabulary quickly!

The Kindergarten classes today were strange, in that the 3 year olds were terrible, and the 4’s were angles! It also helped that the school director (does the name still stand if there are only 2 classes?) was watching, so not only did she help with discipline, but she got to see me teach a good class! (Numbers 1-5, a review of Blue, Red, Green and yellow, weather review, and reading one of the books mum sent, “Hello bear”)

My 4^th A form (the Kazakh kids) drew pictures of the seasons to send to England, in what I hope will be a semi-regular exchange of art and information. I also have something set up with a school in America that I hope to work with as well. With all western films being dubbed into Russian here, and most music being Russian, its important to try reach out to the English speaking world. (Ill try and post them off on the weekend dad)

On a side note, I have actively started to learn Russian (well, I have done it once, today, so the statement still stands), as, well, I am sick of not understanding people. With an understanding of Russian, I can talk to 100% of people here, as opposed to 50% if I only know Kazakh. And the Russian speakers in the Peace Corps seem to be at a higher level of conversation than the Kazakh group, so I am hoping it is easier!

13th November

13^th November

“I am not going to ride the magic carpet” he hissed, “I am afraid of grounds!”

“Don’t you mean heights?”

“I know what I mean! It’s the grounds that kill you!” Sorcery

Back from the big city, and as always, I will miss the place. Not only as it is a nice city in its own right, but just due to the contrast with my village. The creature comforts have been wonderful of course – indoor toilets and showers. And running water. And paved streets. And reliable electricity. And busses. But it is also things like the general level of English that makes life easier there. I went into a book shop looking for hiking maps, and, after asking in Kazakh where they might be, the 3 nearest staff members all then asked me questions about what I wanted, in fluent English. Which is just so different from my village, where the average person could not answer “What is your name?” Although all of this was in vain as they didn’t have the map I wanted.

I went to a classical Japanese music concert while I was in Almaty, and not only was it great, and my first experience seeing a koto and shakuhachi being used, but it was also FREE! It featured Ken Aiso on violin, Akikazu Nakamura on shakuhachi, Toshiko Kuto on kuto, and a Brit on piano, Alasdair Beatson. They all played separately, then in pairs, and finally as a group, and I really enjoyed it. The autumn theme was hard to detect with the piano and violin peaces, but it was a great concert.

I also went to see my first opera! Verdi’s Aida and I enjoyed it. Not that I had any idea what was going on, as my Italian isn’t up to much and the subtitles were all in Russian, but it was very impressive to hear it in person, and I still don’t know how they manage to sing so loudly! One of the Peace Corps office staff is very well connected within the artistic community of Almaty, and she managed to get our 400tenge (£2.10) tickets upgraded to the best in the house (1800tenge, £8), so I was only 5 rows from the front! Although at three hours, it was hard to stay away (I may have rested my eyes for a bit in the 3^rd act).

Not much else to report from Almaty really, other than my favourite Indian Restaurant has moved and its new location doesn’t seem to be known, but I made up for with Mexican(ish) food, and broccoli! There is such an abundance of restaurants in the city, offering almost everything you can imagine (even Fish and Chips), that it makes the village diet seem even more boring and limited. I eat 3 or 4 dishes here, on a random cycle, with little in the way of variation (and vegetables).

3rd November

3^rd November

“For the past is past and will never return, the future we know not, and only the present can be called our own” Marie Corelli

I am reading a history of Tsar Nicholas, as this quote was written in his diary by his then fiancée Alexandra. It is a quote by Marie Corelli apparently, a lady I had never heard of, but according to Wikipedia, her “novels sold more copies than the combined sales of popular contemporaries, including Arthur Conan Doyle, H.G Wells and Rudyard Kipling. Anyway, I liked it the quote.

The book is a strange one from the 1960’s, with all of the information apparently gathered from the diaries and letters of those surrounding the Russian royal family. It reads more like fiction than non-fiction, but it is interesting subject matter, so I will try and finish it. Another 600page tomb, thanks again Jason.

I was just informed that the breakfast dad has cooked, pasta and sausage, contains no meat. I wonder if this is similar to the Japanese idea that food cooked in fish sauce is also vegetarian.

I am sitting in the teacher’s room writing this, as I have started bringing my computer to school, and just typing in the lesson plans. Saves me doing it later, and means I can give copies to the teachers to look at and revise over the summer.

It is the end of the first time, and grade giving time. As I have mentioned, the scale in theory goes from 1-5 (five being best), but in practice, no one gets less than a 3 (the official grade tables only have 3, 4, 5 options). Teachers are supposed to write in grades in the class journal after every lesson, based on, well, whatever they deem fit. And they do, its just that what they deem fit is very arbitrary, and is based more on how the student does in other classes, than in specific performance. For example, if a student gets 5’s in Maths and Physics, they will probably receive 5’s in all the other subjects, regardless of their actual performance. Likewise, if a student gets 3’s, they will get them across the board.

With my English teachers, I have been trying to make grades based on class work and homework, and we have made a little progress. Students can only get a 5 if they do their homework, which seems like a simple enough request, but with over half the kids not doing it, it has caused a few comments from fellow teachers (“Why did my son not get a 5?”, “He doesn’t do his homework”, “That doesn’t seem fair”, “If he did his homework, he would get a 5”). This novel approach to grades hasn’t caught on though, and I am currently witnessing the Kazakh language teachers giving the end of season grades, by asking the other teachers in the room, if the kids are good students or not.

At least I haven’t seen any money change hands to buy grades, which apparently will happen for the end of year ones. By that time, I hope to have the system in place for English to make the system of grade giving set in stone, and un-shakeable. But we will see. Fingers crossed.

Off to Almaty again tomorrow, for another week of boring teacher training seminars. This time, there are 2 optional days of AIDS prevention training, which I am staying for, as much for an excuse to spend more time in the city, as for the useful information I will learn. It also will allow me to apply for grants for AIDS related projects, which is something I will try and organise for next year. HIV is really low here, which is wonderful, in part due to a tiny population spread over a massive country, but, as with most countries, it is rising. If I can teach the village kids in the 11^th class something that will help them when they move to the cities for University, then I will give it a shot. Not sure if my Kazakh will be up to it by then though, we will see!

30th October

30^th October

First dusting of snow in Beskol (the mountains are covered) and it really does mean winter is on its way. I tried on my thermal underwear today, just to check if it still fits! The bottoms are still nice and tight, which either means I haven’t lost all of my leg muscles yet, or that the bottoms just stretch well. The top is certainly looser now.

Gosh darn it I need a better hat. I brought a light weight wool beanie with me, and it does a great job keeping the wind off, but as the temperature keeps falling, I need something better!

I am going to Almaty next week, and will look for a Russian fur hat- When in Rome and all that. Rabbit seems to be the most ethical choice (although bear or wolf would be bad-ass), and its also cheaper, so I will keep my eyes peeled. It will go great with my tracksuit.

I managed to teach why Nigger is a word that white people cannot say to black people today, using English and acting. Not only was I proud that I managed to get my message across, but I was also glad I got the message across. Between gangster movies, and gangster rap, the word has spread around the world, but lacking all of the context that we understand (hopefully) in the west. It is therefore not seen as a bad word here, and is just used to describe a black person. Which of course, without the racist sentiment, renders the word harmless, if any one does ever visit another country, they need to understand! I was talking about it with my host sister, about how many countries and colours have rude, or at least identifying words for other people, and how you have to be careful what you say. Apparently Kazakhs call Russians “Akh kulakh” (white ears), and I explained “Haku-jin” from Japan, and white people calling Asians “Chinks”. I hope the message got across anyway.

There is a particularly boisterous student at school, and given my (self defined) position as the only ‘cool’ teacher at school, I am trying to motivate him, and other like him, into at least paying attention in classes. I have also invited them to the Frisbee practices, and a few are enjoying it. Although they have added a heck of a lot more testosterone, to what was before, a 70% female squad.

I wrestled one of them yesterday, at his behest, and without knowing what I was getting into, I was quickly on the floor with a sprained elbow. It turns out he is the regional champion, and certainly built for wrestling, being about 5ft 6 and weighing as much as me.

Yesterday was a huge Kazakh language event, and I had the privilege of being invited to film it. Well, I was told about it at 9pm the night before (Peter, bring your camera), and then commanded to film it (I have a photo camera with basic filming abilities), and enough memory card space for about 15minutes of film. Well, it went on for 3 hours. I will edit it tomorrow, but I know ill be shouted at. But its hardly my fault. In typical Kazakh style, something that had obviously been in planning for weeks, was only mentioned the night before, and the intended role at it, on the morning off, so I didn’t bring more memory cards, or a flash, or anything. Wish me luck

27th October

27^th October

“Friendship should never be taken to the point of self immolation” August 1914

No, this quote isn’t related to anything in particular, but I just liked it. The wording is very hyperbolic, but gets its point across.

I am actually really enjoying the book, even with its heft, and I wish I could get hold of the other 2 in the series. But I hate to think how much the postage would be, a hardback of 650 pages weighs, well, rather more than an African swallow can carry. (10 points if you understand the reference)

The author, by the time of writing the book, had been exiled from the Soviet Union for unpatriotic comments, and its clear to see - even in this book, which writes about a time before Communist Russia – how his words could have been taken in the wrong light.

The following two quotes I found very interesting, mainly as they seem to describe my current situation in Kazakhstan. Part of me is gladdened to see that some of the things I dislike about Kazakhstan are not unique to here, but have been part of Russian life for rather a while. Of course, the other part of me is just as angry, as if these things were seen as negative 100 years ago, and still haven’t been fixed, then what hope to I have in 2 years.

“Soldau, like all German country towns, did not sprawl and take up good farmland as Russian towns do; it was not surrounded by a derelict belot of rubbish dumps and waste land; wherever you entered it, you at once found yourself passing neat, closely built rows of tiled brick houses, some of them even three of four stories high.”

The waste management in rural Kazakhstan is, frankly, anarchistic i.e there seem to be no rules at all. People burn most of their rubbish, but, at the same time, they dump a lot of it, especially the un-burnable items, like all of the vodka bottles. There is no recycling to be seen, and no designated dump. My village is also about 80% bungalows and nothing taller than two floors, with only 1 paved road.

“Plan! There was something so un-Russian about the word”

The concept of planning ahead (or at all), also seems to be an alien one to many people here, with events seemingly decided at the last minute, and ensuring that the end result is never what it could be.

24th October

24^th October

“I have made a terrible mistake” Arrested Development

A quote from an American comedy series from a few years ago. One of the main characters would - often- make many terrible mistakes.

Mine is hardly serious, and not even potentially a mistake, but still.

I showed the teacher in charge of the Active Board how to use it today, and all the useful things that can be done with it- mainly as clipart (she teachers 3^rd grade students).

Which means I will not get my own copy of the Active Pen, as she will now want it… boooooo

I use the board for 3 (possibly 4) clubs a week, and the kids love it, as it means I can show photos and film clips, and play music, and just clearly write out grammar and things. Certainly less messy than a chalk board as well.

So I will probably have to schedule a teacher training session on smart boards now, as the teachers will all want to try and use it. The biggest problem, despite an almost universal inability to use computers here, is that the room the board is in is a form room. For 3^rd class in the morning, and 4^th class in the afternoon, so there are only a few times when it can be used by other people, and I have claimed most of those spots.

Oh well.

A few things in life, including, for example, my hair falling out have made me realise I am getting old.

Comics like this one don’t help. Although I guess I shouldn’t worry about it, and just enjoy myself. Not only am I living in an often rewarding and always challenging country, but, you know, I might not make it to 30, so what’s the point in worrying about it.

23rd October

23^rd October

“Quick, you must come with me,” she said. “You’re in great danger!”

“Why?”

“Because I will kill you if you don’t” Sorcery

I have taken a break from Dune books, after 4 in as many weeks, I am rather saturated with it all, and it’s unfortunate that the books are progressively less interesting.

So I have read two Terry Pratchet books in the past week to help re-kindle my love of reading back. For those who don’t know, he is a fantasy writer from England who manages to write an amazing number of very funny books, and while they are often quick reads, there is usually some subtle (or not so subtle) point to each book. And they make me laugh without fail.

I am now getting my teeth into something all together different, Alexander Solzhenitsyn’s August 1914. Another part of a series, this time in 4 parts, but this is a paper copy (thanks Jason) and parts 2 and 3 aren’t available and part 4 hasn’t been translated into English yet.

In case you hadn’t guessed, it covers only 1 month in 1914, all 622 pages of the book! I don’t seem to read much historical fiction, so it will be a nice change, and the guy was a Nobel Prize winner, so it must be pretty well written.

20th October

20^th October

“Every sense you possess is an instrument for reacting to change” Dune

It was the mini-football tournament yesterday, and Beskol remain the reigning champions for another year. We played 6 games, and only conceded two goals. I managed to sprain my ankle during the warm up – bloody typical – so wasn’t of much use, but did manage to get both goals in the final. It was also the only match our school director watched, so it also helped my standing in the school I am sure.

Of course, all of this will be worthless once they see me play in the basketball tournament in December, and even more so in the volleyball next year. Both sports of which I have almost zero ability. Comments of, “But you are tall and athletic” don’t help, and only make me more nervous about disappointing people. I am truly terrible at both sports.

Some trousers arrived for my mum today (thanks again) and I was slightly worried that the 34inch waist I had asked for might be too small. I came to Kazakhstan wearing a 36inch + belt, and have had to make two new holes in it since then, so I thought I must be around 34/35inches now. Well, the trousers fit mum, but I still need the belt! I haven’t worn clothes this small since senior school (high school). Instead it would probably be a better idea to be putting weight ON, seeing as winter is very quickly approaching.

18th October

18^th October

“Most believe that a satisfactory future requires a return to an idealised past” Dune

So it turns out that the Israeli prisoner who was released today is the cousin, of my dad’s cousin’s wife. So while hardly a close member of the family, it’s still nice to see he was released after all this time. I also hope that this signifies a shift in the negotiations for a separate Palestinian nation. The 1000 prisoners returning will either bring with them a desire for peace, or renewed aggression.

From everything I have read, the modern Israeli state is financially committed to continuing the conflict, both in terms of American aid, and its own military and defence industry. Indeed, it is not in Israel’s interest to end the status quo, which makes the farce of all of these ‘Middle-east peace plans’. They are not peace talks, if one side already knows it doesn’t want peace.

Now, the Palestinians are hardly innocent in all of this, and the rocket attacks and bombings are destructive and dangerous. But it’s possible to argue that they are fighting from a position of desperation, and history has shown what desperate people are willing to do.

So my hope is that this release moves both parties move together, but both will be doing it for different reasons. Hammas has now played its only trump card, and now the only thing it can bring to the table is an end to all acts of violence. If it able to maintain a ceasefire then its image abroad will be bolstered, and it will remove Israeli claims that all of their actions are in self defence.

Israel is currently basking in international praise for its action. Swapping 1000 people for a single person was a big risk for them, and while not universally popular domestically, it has certainly helped their image abroad. Outside of the USA, I think many people, while not being anti-Israel, are more likely to be against the Israeli occupation of Palestine, and this latest action will have helped Israeli PR no end. Hopefully this will mean that all future decisions made in regards to Palestine will consider the international support such actions could gain, rather than simply pandering to domestic voters. If Israel wants to help improve its relations with Turkey – and as a major purchaser of Israeli weapons I am sure it does – then such actions will only help.

Of course, all of this is just my humble opinion, based on what I have read, and I could be completely wrong. And this has nothing to do with Kazakhstan, so sorry!

16th October

16^th October

“He is both the storm and the ship” Dune

I feel like that sometimes, when I try to instigate changes in the status quo amongst the English teachers here. It may not be comfortable at first, but I promise it will help!

Certificates here are very important, not just for personal pride, but also for job advancement and I got my first one yesterday! Looking forward to my pay rise!

It was the annual teachers 3km ish (7 laps of what was claimed to be a 400m track – looked more like 200m to me, although im not complaining) race in the Rayon (borough/ward) today, and I came third! The first time I have run a track race since I was 15, and I was only inches away from the 2^nd guy. So I am rather pleased with myself. I didn’t take a note of my time, but I will try to get hold of it. It also means I don’t have to run anymore till next summer, which my poor knees will also appreciate. My price was a small vase, and an official certificate. If I was a P.E teacher, I could use it to apply for a pay rise – there are 3 pay scales for teachers, and the way to go up is through articles publishes/ personal awards won and awards won by students.

Oh, Jason came 4^th, and Steven took the photos. There was also a 2 lap woman’s race, and Michelle ran well in that so great Peace Corps representation.

It’s the Rayon mini-football tournament on Wednesday, so I am also looking to do well in that!

All of this was followed up with a celebratory trip to the only night club in town in the evening, where Steven and I danced like crazy people and had lots of fun. Dancing is treated rather seriously here (just like in most clubs anywhere I guess- lots of image concerns) so not just being foreign, but dancing in totally different ways, and just having fun, is guaranteed to get a crowd.

14th October

14^th October

For those of you who remember the hassle around the new teacher joining at the beginning of school. Well, she has quit, as the commute was too much for her. She had a point- it was costing her 1000tenge a day and 30minutes each way by taxi, and she now works at a school much closer. Steven and I went to visit it today, ostensibly to talk about FLEX – a programme run by the USA that gives 1000 kids from the ex-Soviet Union a free year’s study in American High school. There is no one good enough at my school (well, who qualifies anyway, its only for 7/8/9^th classes), but there are a few kids in the area who we are urging to apply.

It was also nice to see the school, and once again notice how every school here is different! Clean, white, airy and spacious school, with a young staff and happy kids - It was really nice to see! The English level is really low, but both Steven and Michelle are starting English clubs there, so that will help, and its nice to see how kids respond in an environment where they aren’t shouted at all the time (they seemed much more adult and better behaved)

13th October

13^th October

I’m back to complaining about Beskol School again, fancy that. I just feel so sad on behalf of the pupils here, who take second place to the ladies club which happens to share the same building and rooms as them. (I’m not blaming this on woman, but there are only 5 male members of staff- the 3 PE teachers, the Military studies guy, and myself – while there must be 30 or so ladies).

Here are two examples, just from today:

Half of the science department has gone to Almaty for a conference for the week, which means half of the science classes have been cancelled.

It was medical inspection day today, so after the inspection the kids went home, in some cases missing the 4 classes that should have followed it.

On the whole the children at school are noticeably poorer students than those in Ushiral, the nearest town, and greatly so from those in Taldy-Kalgan, the nearest city.

I know I am only here to help improve the English, but when the whole school (and probably many more) is so fundamentally broken, it not only limits what I can do, but also raises the question of the value of doing so.